Training 11/4

It has been 2 weeks since I last trained, I tried to come in last Wednesday but they were testing. Rodrigo ran warmups and taught the first technique, then Greg finished up the rest of the class. It was great to take a class from him again, it has been years (literally). He is such a technical teacher and has such great anecdotes that really bring his lessons to life.

This day (and the next couple weeks apparently) was devoted to “bad positions”. So we worked a counter to a hip throw and how to work out of a failed shot.

Hip-Throw Counter

This technique was supposed to be used if your opponent attempts to hip throw you from a standing position.

  1. Start in a standing tie-up, one hand on lapel, the other on the elbow.  Your opponent steps in, shoots his hand around your back as if about to throw you.
  2. Counter by immediately clamping down your arm around the arm he shoots in with.  This is very similar to a wizzer, except instead of cranking down, keep your head tight and grab your own lapel with the wizzering arm.
  3. Grab their lapel (the other one) with your other hand.  Then transition your hand on your lapel to your other bicep.  You should end up with a figure-four around their arm holding their lapel.
  4. Take your far leg and put it behind their knee as your fall to your back.  Use your leg and your arms to roll them over you.  You should end up in side control.

While this move is a little hard to describe it felt very natural.  Just falling was enough to get my partner (about my size) to roll over me even when he resisted.  The hand transitions can be done pretty slowly if you lock down tight, use your head and create friction between the gis.

Failed Shot

Sprawl reversal

This was the first of 3 techniques that you might use from a failed shot.  When you shoot and fail, the first thing you want to do is control an arm to prevent them from taking your back.  This technique assumes that you have control of an arm.

  1. Start with your opponent sprawling on you, you’re on your knees.
  2. Grab control of one of their arms and pull it tight underneath you.  You want to put your shoulder into the middle of their bicep, this is important to prevent the guillotine.
  3. Drive hard into this arm, post up the opposite leg and use it to roll your opponent (think russian arm drag for how to use their arm).  This will roll your opponent when you get the angle correct.
  4. As soon as your opponent rolls, control his near leg.  Always control the near leg to prevent them from taking (re-taking) guard.  Then plow them until they are on their back.  You should have their arm and near leg and side control when you are done.

Opponent takes your back

This technique is done if you cannot take control of their arm and they take your back (referee’s position).  This is very similar to the chicken wing in wrestling.

  1. Hook whichever arm is below your shoulders.  Keep it very tight.  Your opponent cannot choke you with just one arm, so keep control of one of them.
  2. Grab your opponents pant leg with your other arm (behind you)
  3. Roll over your partner on the shoulder of the arm that you control.  This is very important, otherwise you roll right into a choke.  Roll over your clear shoulder.  Use their pant leg and your arm control to prvent them from basing out.
  4. Keep control of both limbs and plow into them to roll them flat.  You know have side control or scarf hold, etc.

Opponent has one hook in

If you oppoenent takes your back and manages to get one hook in you are in trouble.  This technique is another roll that attempts to clear you out of that.

  1. Control an arm and try to get it under your own.  Hook behind their elbow if you can and keep it tight as in the above technique.  If possible control the arm opposite the hook so you can grab the pant leg of the leg hooking you, but this is not necessary.
  2. Roll on the shoulder of the arm that you are controlling.  Control your opponents leg with your other arm.
  3. Work your way out of the hook while controlling your opponents leg and then roll over guard, side-control, mount, etc.

This technique felt very similar to how you escape from 2 hooks, except its way easier to base out and using a hand if you can spare one makes it easier to shed the hooks.

We didn’t roll at all during this class, but thats ok, I was pretty gassed.  Greg talked a lot at the end of the class and it was really helpful, a few takeaways that I had:

  • Always control your opponents near leg when you are in side control, they really can pull guard then.  Straighten your arm if possible.
  • Always turn toward the legs in a scramble.  This is where positions are made or lost.
  • Your opponent can’t choke you with one arm, just control one solidly.
  • Gi action is much slower.  Just try to win inches.  Inches add up, so if you can gain an inch and hold, gain an inch and hold you will end up in a good position.
  • Always be deliberate.  This is a very very important one for me.   I think that is why I have been having a tough time improving (aside from lack of practice :) ).  I need to always know what the outcome of my next move will be.  Stop creating scrambles.  I like to create scrambles because I am fast and strong enough that I generally end up in a good position when the dust settles, but that is keeping me from improving.  If I always know exactly what I think the result of each technique will be I can do a few things:
    • If the technique succeeds then I can become more strategic and hone the array of moves I use, when I use them, etc.
    • If it fails I can figure out why.  Was I in the wrong position?  Bad technique?  Too weak?  Knowing the answer to this is how you get better.

All in all, I really enjoyed it.  It was fun to work with Greg again and I think the advice about being deliberate will really help me going forward.

Training 10/21

Ugh.  Rolled of the first time in about 8 months.  It was fun to get back out there and it was also my first time rolling up at MMAA.  I could tell that I was out of shape because the warm ups (which were not that intense) already made me feel like I wanted to puke.  Also, this was the first time in a Gi in years–though I kind of liked it.

Side Control to Knee Mount

We started by working Side Control to Knee Mount combinations.  The transition was very simple

  1. From side control (your opponent’s left side), transition your hand at their head to get a firm grip on their far side collar.
  2. Your hand that was controlling their leg moves to their belt (or pants) and hold firm.
  3. Do a pushup and put your left knee on their stomach, stretch your right leg out far behind you.  Stretching the leg is important both for base and so that they can not hook it with their arm and roll you.
  4. In a tournament, posture up to show control and you have earned your points (MMAA rain down shots)

This transition felt really smooth for me and I can see it being very effective as I end up in side control a lot.

Knee Mount to Arm Bar

From knee mount we then showed a simple arm bar counter that you can use when your opponent tries to push you off.

  1. Obtain Knee Mount as described above
  2. Your opponent reaches across their body to try to push your knee of of their stomach creating some space between their torso and arm
  3. Reach cross body (left arm) into the space that they have created and grab their triceps.  Reaching deeper helps put the arm in the right position as you engage the arm bar.
  4. Swing your extended leg around their head and put your toes into/under to their ribcage (Japanese arm bar style).  Grab their pants leg with your free hand.
  5. Finish the arm bar by pinning their head and extending your hips, controlling the pant leg and their wrist

Knee Mount to Collar Choke

This move was a follow up to the knee mount to arm bar combo and should be used when they attempt to push off your knee but do not create enough space for you to reach through and grab their triceps.

  1. Obtain Knee Mount as described above
  2. Your opponent reaches across their body to try to push your knee of of their stomach but does not created any space to grab their tricep
  3. Shoot your free hand down grab their collar behind their head.  You should attempt to shoot pretty deep, keep it on the inside of your other hand but get them close.
  4. You now have two hands grabbing their collar, behind their head.  Take your first hand (furthest away from you) and without letting go of the collar, rotate it around their head.  You now should have your arms crossed, scissoring their neck.  Apply the choke by tightening your arms.  Lean forward and post on your head to finish.

Rolling

We rolled for the last 30 minutes of class.  It went well, I didn’t get tapped out by anybody and tapped out around 80% of my guys.  I was truly exhausted though, with a lot of stalling then a flurry of action.  A few notes about this gym vs. Demon:  Much better shape, not as technical, very poor takedowns.  It was weird to feel like one of the more technical guys in the room, I don’t normally feel that way (keep in mind we were all white belts… but still).  It was good in that I was in the worst shape of everybody but was having some success, so its just another example of why good technique is essential and I should stop relying on physicality (when I am in shape).  Looking forward to some no-gi once my foot heals (stepped on some glass last night :( )

Workout 3/11/08

Tuesday’s workout was very similar to Monday’s.  We did some killer warmups and then worked on our takedowns.  Instead of working the single leg at the end however we worked the High Crotch.

High Crotch Double Leg

Contrary to what the name would lead you to believe you are actually not attack the crotch at all.  The move used to be performed that way, but outside of traditional wrestling that is less effective as you can be guillotined and other such nasty things.  The point of the High Crotch is that you initially perform your shot with your shoulders perpendicular to your opponent’s waist (not parallel) and thus can pass their defense if they are posting on your shoulders.

Step by step:

  1. Control your opponent and T them up (as you would with a regular double leg)
  2. If you have inside ties, throw their left arm (your right arm) over your head, and put your right hand in your butt pocket to prevent them from underhooking you
  3. As you do the above step, twist your shoulders perpendicular to your opponents hips, drop on your left (lead) leg, and wrap your left arm around their left leg down at the ankle.  This is used to prevent them from sprawling.
  4. If you have performed step 3 and 4 correctly, you have a clear angle to step up with your right leg and switch your hands and finish like a normal double leg.

Note that the point here is to twist your shoulders to get inside, prevent the underhook or your rear arm, and grab the ankle to prevent a sprawl.  Your standard keep your head up neck tight advice applied here.

On a personal note, I need to make sure on all of my doubles that I clear the lead leg that I’m attacking so that it doesn’t get caught in between my own legs.  I know to do this but am just sloppy sometimes.  I just need some more reps.

When we hit the mat we worked our standard side control flow.  One thing I noticed was that on the straight arm bar (step 2), it helps a lot if you pinch your elbows together to prevent them from having room to roll their arm over.

Rolling was good, I did not get tapped, but was admittedly working with people worse than me.  I rolled with a really big guy from the army for a while.  He was new so he really just had his strength going for him.  The more experienced guys I rolled with were much weaker than me and I had to consciously fight the desire to just muscle in an Americana from mount.  I had a lot of success with arm bars in transition.

Training 2/18

Today we went over a flow of submissions from side mount, as well as the basics of the S-Guard and a reverse from guard. It was pretty random, as he just answered questions that we had.

Drill:

The flow we did from side mount was a series of attacks to the arm. Starting in side mount you:

  1. Switch to Scarf hold from the top, and the person on bottom cross faces you with their away arm (I’ll assume we are on the person on bottom’s right side).
  2. From the top, you grab he cross-facing arm and drop back into side control sinking a figure-4 in so that you can finish an Americana
  3. Apply the americana by sliding the elbow toward their feet (flat on the mat) and then cranking up on their elbow.
  4. The person on bottom then straightens their arm to avoid the Americana and the person on top KEEPS the figure-4
  5. On top you then segue into a straight figure-4 arm bar, keeping your hands in position but now attacking the elbow
  6. The person on bottom then rolls their hand all the way over (palm to the mat) and tries to bring their arm in.
  7. On top, you block this motion by pinning your own head into the mat, and then while continuing to control the wrist, bend their arm down for a Kimura, switch your left hand under their tricep. From here, step your left leg over the person on bottom’s head and apply the Kimura (brazilian style)
  8. If you cannot step over their head (they stop you), switch your grip on their wrist to motorcycle grip (thumb around the wrist) and slide the arm under their back for a Japanese or Sakuraba Kimura

This flow was helpful for me, because I find that I can get side mount pretty easily, but finishing from there is always about strength, instead of reacting to their defense.

The next thing we covered was a reversal from guard. When your opponent is in your guard and sits back, buck them forward and plant your feet inside theirs. While hooking one of their feet, grab their opposite wrist in a baseball bat grip and straighten them out (opposite wrist and leg). This will roll them to their side and you can crawl to their back. I found that when I held the wrist, I could control them much easier and segue into arm bar easily from here.

Armbar from S-Mount:

Finally we covered n arm bar from S-Mount. S-mount should be used when your opponent is keeping their elbows in tightly and you cannot get inside their arms.

  1. If we are going to attack the left arm we, start by pulling up hard on their left elbow (left hand) and the back of their head (right hand).
  2. We then jam tightly our left knee under their right shoulder, and start to turn our hips clockwise.
  3. The right leg should then switch, foot to their head, shin flat on the ground parallel with their body. Keep this TIGHT!
  4. At this point if you are tight and keeping your weight underneath you, you can slow down start attacking the arms. They can try and buck you but if you are tight and heavy they will have difficulty with it.
  5. Now attack the left arm, if you can control it you can get an arm bar from here by putting their hand under your armpit and arching your back, otherwise fight for normal armbar grip.
  6. Because your left leg is under their shoulder it is a very small motion to then move the leg over their head and fall back into arm bar.

The fun part of my day was getting my ass kicked by my instructor. We rolled for 20 minutes after class and I have never been beaten so quickly so many times. I had never rolled with anyone higher than purple before (he is black belt), and it was simultaneously depressing and inspiring how he could do whatever he wanted and never once muscled me. I’d list the ways I got tapped out but there were probably 30-40 :) I must say, his level of control, relaxation and domination were really inspiring and made me want to train all that much harder. Now if I could just stop getting triangled from mount…

The Guillotine

The Guillotine is the most basic of chokes, and can be delivered from a variety of positions. The basic premise is that you have your forearm/blade of your wrist against your opponent’s larynx and are attempting to crush it. Yesterday, we worked the Guillotine from standing position, from Guard, and then the standard defenses to both.

Standing Guillotine

Drills:

We started by working a simple drill wherein your opponent takes what would be a bad attempt at a double leg takedown (face at the ground), and you use one arm to shuck them to the side, step with them, and guillotine them with the other arm. You then, use the guillotining arm to shuck the other way, and guillotine on the other side. Repeat, repeat, repeat. It kind of felt like pummeling, and helped work the muscle memory for quick application when fending off a takedown.

Offense:

The technique for applying the standing guillotine is pretty straightforward. Starting with your opponent facing you, they are bent over, face toward the floor. You then slide the hand of the arm that you are going to apply the choke with down the side of your opponents neck until their larynx is perpendicular to your forearm. You then use your other arm to grab your choking hand as it becomes available on the other side of your opponents head (Gable Grip as always). Once your arms are in place, pressure is applied by lifting your arms straight up, parallel to your own torso. Ideally, you slide them up your own chest. While doing this you hip into your opponent, and arch your back (much like throwing a suplex). Now, squeeze until something pops or they tap.

Defense:

To defend against the standing guillotine you start by first turning your head into the choke, that is sideways getting your laryx off of the forearm. You then your arm that is across your opponents body over their outer shoulder. Thus if they are choking you with their right arm, you throw your right arm over their left shoulder as deep as possible and pull down hard. Then use your other arm (left in the above example), to push back on the thigh of the leg that corresponds to their choking arm (right in this example). With your head turned, and your arms in position it makes it very difficult for them to apply the choke because they can’t stand up with the choke.

From here you can base out fight your way out or go for a variety of take downs. We played around with sweeps, trips, and an ankle pick but drilled a throw. Once you have pulled your opponent low to the ground, use the arm that is over their shoulder and quickly move it to the other side of their head. You can then apply your own guillotine. This is not a choke however, it will be a throw. Once you’ve wrapped your arm over their head, throw an upper cut with that hand and twist your hips as you fall to the ground. This will throw your opponent and leave you with a half nelson in side control. Pretty slick and very easy even with a much stronger opponent as your leverage is really good if properly done.

Guillotine From Guard

Offense:

We did not cover how to get into Guillotine when already in guard (the open guard sweep, americana, guillotine attack), but rather how to fall into guard when you have a standing guillotine. We started by applying a standing guillotine, then falling directly into guard while holding our guillotine. Once you hit the ground just close your guard tight and apply the same principles as with the standing guillotine, pull up with your hands (along your own torso) and hip into your opponenet. Because you have your legs wrapped around your opponent this felt like a much tighter choke for me.

Defense:

The defense to the guillotine when you’re in someone’s guard was predicated on your getting your arm over their shoulder (as above) before you hit the mat.  If you did not then immediately try and get your arm over their shoulder and under their back.  Once you have position with your arm, gable grip your hand with your other arm and keep your grip.  This prevents your opponent from stretching out and hipping into you.  From here, you drop your shoulder of the arm that is wrapped around their back into your opponent’s neck/face and get high (on your toes).  Drop as much of your weight on the shoulder as possible and start circling in that direction.  Try to pin your opponent to the mat and keep circling, they will try and move with you, but if you can pin them and move you will break their guard and their choke on you.  I found it helped to dip my hips in the direction I was circling.